Buying guides · Climbing
The Best Beginner Climbing Shoes, Ranked
Your first climbing shoes should be comfortable enough that you forget about your feet and think about your technique. Aggressive downturned shoes are for later.
October 24, 2026 · 7 min read
What makes a good beginner shoe
Three things: a flat last that lets your toes lie straight, a moderately stiff sole that supports your foot on small holds, and enough rubber under the toe to survive beginner footwork.
Closure matters less than fit. Velcro is quicker at the gym, laces give a more precise fit for narrower feet — both are fine.
1. La Sportiva Tarantulace — the default first shoe
Flat, leather, laced and forgiving. The Tarantulace is the shoe most climbing gyms recommend, and for good reason: it is comfortable for a full session, durable enough to learn footwork in, and inexpensive.
It stretches roughly half a size over its life, so start snug but not painful.
2. Black Diamond Momentum — best value velcro
A flat, neutral shoe with a wide toe box and a soft upper. The velcro straps make it easy to get on and off between problems, which beginners do constantly.
The rubber is a little less sticky than La Sportiva’s, but at its price it is the best value entry shoe on the market.
3. Scarpa Origin — best for wider feet
The Origin is built around a slightly wider, higher-volume foot with a padded heel. If the Tarantulace pinches across the top of your foot, this is the shoe to try.
It is stiff enough to stand on small edges and soft enough to smear on volume.
4. Evolv Defy — the most forgiving fit
Soft, wide and cheap. The Defy is the shoe people wear for their first six months without ever thinking about them. It gives a lot of feedback, which teaches footwork quickly.
It will wear faster than a stiffer shoe, so it is a good candidate for a lightly used pair.
5. Five Ten Niad — best for smearing
Five Ten’s rubber is the stickiest in the business, and the Niad pairs it with a flat, comfortable last. If your gym sets a lot of slab and volume, this shoe makes you feel brave.
Softer shoes like this suit lighter climbers best; heavier climbers may prefer more support under the arch.
Do not buy aggressive shoes yet
Downturned, highly asymmetric shoes are built for steep overhangs and demand strong toes and precise footwork. On beginner terrain they are painful and they teach bad habits — you end up avoiding small footholds because they hurt.
Buy flat and comfortable now. Buy aggressive in a year, when you actually want them.
Sizing: snug, not punishing
Climbing shoes should fit tighter than running shoes, with toes flat or only slightly curled and no dead space at the heel. They should not make your toenails ache.
Wear them for a full gym session before a real outdoor day. If they hurt after twenty minutes, they are too small.
Used climbing shoes are a bargain — with one rule
Footwear is one of the safest things to buy secondhand in climbing: shoes are not life-safety equipment. Check the rand (the rubber wrapping the toe) for holes, and the sole for worn-through edges.
Never buy a used rope, harness, sling or helmet. Those are safety items with a service life you cannot verify, and they should always be bought new.
Common questions
- Can beginners wear used climbing shoes?
- Yes. Climbing shoes are not safety equipment and are easy to inspect. Look for intact rands, unworn sole edges, and uppers without tears at the toe.
- Should climbing shoes be painful when new?
- No. A little pressure is normal; sharp pain, numb toes or curled toes you cannot straighten mean the shoe is too small or too aggressive for a beginner.
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